BULLI & BALENE – Spritz e Cicchetti

        Head towards “pussy alley”

An Italian Side Street with vespas
The so-called “Pussy Alley” on the corner where Bulli and Balene is located.

Every night on pussy alley there is a huge aperitivo in the streets. Beautiful Italians drinking wine while their voices carry far out onto the neighboring plaza. It is a social party full of locals, but not the type of party an American can attend. I had tried to be apart of the atmosphere, but I do not speak Italian so I could only observe the party from afar. My friends and I had a shared feeling of being left out, but we could not stop coming to Bulli and Balene. Pussy alley was captivating, we wanted a taste of the local Italian culture.

Best for:

Chalkboard Spritz Menu
The best local bar in Florence!

Those that are not drinking to get drunk, rather those who want to casually sip on some snazzy cocktails and munch on a couple of light snacks. Probably one of the main reasons Americans cannot fully be apart of the Italian experience outside of Bulli and Balene is because of the drunk American tourist stereotypes. So do yourself a favor and take care of yourself because we do not need you to get sloppy just to reinforce that. I recommend going either before or after dinner to sit and chat with friends when you want to trade in an evening filled with tourists for a flair of local culture. It is far from the crowds of the Duomo- a secret spot to see the magical art of the true Italian aperitivo.

Highlights: The Hugo Spritz and Their Cicchetti Sandwiches

Close up picture of glasses of wine, one cocktail, and one cocktail
Drinks on drinks on drinks! Two glasses of wine, one Hugo spritz, and one ginger beer.

If you are lucky enough to go into Bulli and Balene with an open mind you should try the star of the show- the hugo. This spritz is classified by me as their signature drink. Do not get me wrong, there are plenty of drinks to choose from- they have a large beer and wine list and they put funky twits on classics, but Bulli and Balene is known for their spritz’s. Trust me if you do not get one you are missing out big time! The Hugo is a mint and lime spritz that is super fresh and crisp. The drink has a hint of sweetness from the prosecco, but it is not overpowering because it is balanced out by the bitterness from the lime and coolness from the mint. The hugo is the best spritz I have ever had, and this is coming from a girl who does not like mojitos that much!

For the other half of the show you should try a cicchetti sandwich. Whenever you go to Bulli and Balene you will see customers walking with black trays full of little cicchetti sandwiches. The cristini like sandwiches which are one one of the main features of the bar are made fresh daily based on which ingredients are available in local markets. If you go there one day, and go back the next you may not see your favorite from yesterday because their cicchetti menu changes everyday! 

Get off your phone!

Wall of plants
The picturesque plant wall!

Once you get your drinks that come in vintage looking crystal glasses, or see the eloquently hand decorated hummus cristinis that look great against the plant wall you will be tempted to whip out your phone. Here is my challenge for you to not do that. I had to go back to Bulli and Balene multiple times and get photos that my friends took to post to this blog because I did not have any the first time I went. You would never see a local posting pictures to their instagrams of their aperitivos so if it is your goal to be less touristy skip the posting.

If I cannot use my phone, what should I expect?

Griping food, drinks, and conversations. The only time I find it acceptable to use your phone is when you need it for google translate because the menu is strictly written in all Italian (do not worry if you really need it there is free wifi). The place is also packed with mainly locals- you may find a couple of younger study abroad students, but expect the crowd to be young to middle aged Italians. Be prepared for those sometimes awkward interactions in regard to the language barrier.

You have made it to the end so now you can know the truth!

Bulli and Balene is on a side street called “pussy alley” because of a silver cat with piercing blue eyes that sits outside the restaurant. I knew the cat well before I knew the name of the street and I did not realize the name until I grabbed their business card on the second time I went to the bar!

Cat sleeping on top of a vespa
  Bulli and Balene’s mascot- a stray cat

By: Grace Nichols

Where can I find it?

Via dello Sprone, 14, 50125 Firenze FI 

Lady Jane B. Boutique

What’s this place like?

Storefront Lady Jane B Vintage
Storefront Lady Jane B.

Lady Jane B. Boutique is small (roughly the size of a large walk-in closet) and packed from end to end, wall to wall. After being greeted by an assortment of ’50s and ’60s sunglasses as well as funkily patterned headbands and Dorthey-esque high heels in the window, it’s pretty difficult to not enter. To call it eccentric might just be an understatement. Upon entering, you can find racks of vintage clothes handpicked or handmade by the owner, whom is just as funky and eccentric as the clothes: complete with ’70s wispy bangs and a variety of eras represented in her daily outfits. She is always there and ready to offer you ways to pair accessories or wear something in multiple styles. I once witnessed her spend roughly ten minutes helping a woman stylize some pieces she was purchasing and snap a few pictures both with the woman and of the woman and her son, whom wondered around the store with the same curiosity that I find myself having each time I enter. It feels like being propelled back into different decades as told through your aunt’s collection of keep sakes, complete with black and white photos and old suitcases on the walls. The store’s collection features mostly tops and matches the owner’s flair for every era of the twentieth century: ’80s sequined tops, ’40s dresses, late ’60s blouses, ’70s jumpsuits. The store is remarkably warm, both in temperature and energy.

So, how do I get there?

While Lady Jane is not off the beaten path, I wouldn’t say its in the most popular district of Florence, either. It’s located in the Chiavi neighborhood, down the street from the Sant’Ambrogio Church and its accompanying small piazza, not far from the Sant’Ambrogio market. If you go during the evening, you’ll likely hear a jazz trio in front of the church, which I recommend checking out before or after you shop; the vintage style of music pairs nicely with the clothing. If you go during the afternoon, I recommend stopping at the market first (as the market closes early) to snag some fresh, local produce and walk amongst the locals.

Top in Lady Jane B.
Top in Lady Jane B.

Will I be breaking the bank?

That’s the best part. While you may be used to walking into a vintage shop (both in America and abroad) that features well crafted items and feeling discouraged when you see the price tag, that will not be the case here. Blouses are typically priced around €30, dresses €50, accessories €15 or less. Notably, the handmade items are not necessarily more expensive. You can own something no one else has ever owned or something that was once owned 5 decades ago for a similar, reasonable price. Not to mention, there’s always a sales rack with even better deals and it’s updated pretty regularly. I went in a week after the first time I went and saw some new items in the sale section.

What makes it so different from other shops in the area?

This boutique is different because it isn’t “Goodwill” vintage nor is it designer brand vintage. It’s extremely accessible fashion – recycled and/or homemade have you – that is truly fashionable. You’ll find clothing that is special and made well and makes you feel like you’re stepping back into a twentieth century decade (take your pick of which one – or mix & match).  You can add some vintage flair with a pair of ’50s pinup sunglasses or roaring ’20s earrings. Or maybe get a ’70s dress and feel yourself fully pulled back into nostalgia. There’s fun colors, there’s great neutrals, and you’ll get a good deal without sacrificing quality.

What’re the hours like? 

The only con I’ve found of the shop: its hours. I’ve found it to be very hit or miss, so I finally looked them up. The hours are not very consistent. Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday the store is open 3 PM to 8:30 PM, Friday 1:30 PM to 8 PM, and Saturday 3 PM to 8 PM. It is closed both Tuesdays and Sundays. I’m hoping I can persuade the owner to switch out a weekday for Sunday.

Wall details in Lady Jane B.
Wall details in Lady Jane B.

 

When’s the best time to go? 

There’s really no bad time. The great thing about boutiques that are not neighbored by other clothing shops is they tend to be pretty slow often. I’ve found that closer to when it opens on the weekdays tends to be less crowded, while closer to closing is likely to have more people. It’s so small though, that only a few people in the store can feel like too many. The store is warm on its own and the extra body heat only makes it warmer. You’ll find it doesn’t both you too much, though, sifting through time, colors, and patterns.