Head towards “pussy alley”

Every night on pussy alley there is a huge aperitivo in the streets. Beautiful Italians drinking wine while their voices carry far out onto the neighboring plaza. It is a social party full of locals, but not the type of party an American can attend. I had tried to be apart of the atmosphere, but I do not speak Italian so I could only observe the party from afar. My friends and I had a shared feeling of being left out, but we could not stop coming to Bulli and Balene. Pussy alley was captivating, we wanted a taste of the local Italian culture.

Best for:

Those that are not drinking to get drunk, rather those who want to casually sip on some snazzy cocktails and munch on a couple of light snacks. Probably one of the main reasons Americans cannot fully be apart of the Italian experience outside of Bulli and Balene is because of the drunk American tourist stereotypes. So do yourself a favor and take care of yourself because we do not need you to get sloppy just to reinforce that. I recommend going either before or after dinner to sit and chat with friends when you want to trade in an evening filled with tourists for a flair of local culture. It is far from the crowds of the Duomo- a secret spot to see the magical art of the true Italian aperitivo.

Highlights: The Hugo Spritz and Their Cicchetti Sandwiches

If you are lucky enough to go into Bulli and Balene with an open mind you should try the star of the show- the hugo. This spritz is classified by me as their signature drink. Do not get me wrong, there are plenty of drinks to choose from- they have a large beer and wine list and they put funky twits on classics, but Bulli and Balene is known for their spritz’s. Trust me if you do not get one you are missing out big time! The Hugo is a mint and lime spritz that is super fresh and crisp. The drink has a hint of sweetness from the prosecco, but it is not overpowering because it is balanced out by the bitterness from the lime and coolness from the mint. The hugo is the best spritz I have ever had, and this is coming from a girl who does not like mojitos that much!

For the other half of the show you should try a cicchetti sandwich. Whenever you go to Bulli and Balene you will see customers walking with black trays full of little cicchetti sandwiches. The cristini like sandwiches which are one one of the main features of the bar are made fresh daily based on which ingredients are available in local markets. If you go there one day, and go back the next you may not see your favorite from yesterday because their cicchetti menu changes everyday! 

Get off your phone!

Once you get your drinks that come in vintage looking crystal glasses, or see the eloquently hand decorated hummus cristinis that look great against the plant wall you will be tempted to whip out your phone. Here is my challenge for you to not do that. I had to go back to Bulli and Balene multiple times and get photos that my friends took to post to this blog because I did not have any the first time I went. You would never see a local posting pictures to their instagrams of their aperitivos so if it is your goal to be less touristy skip the posting.

If I cannot use my phone, what should I expect?

Griping food, drinks, and conversations. The only time I find it acceptable to use your phone is when you need it for google translate because the menu is strictly written in all Italian (do not worry if you really need it there is free wifi). The place is also packed with mainly locals- you may find a couple of younger study abroad students, but expect the crowd to be young to middle aged Italians. Be prepared for those sometimes awkward interactions in regard to the language barrier.

You have made it to the end so now you can know the truth!

Bulli and Balene is on a side street called “pussy alley” because of a silver cat with piercing blue eyes that sits outside the restaurant. I knew the cat well before I knew the name of the street and I did not realize the name until I grabbed their business card on the second time I went to the bar!

By: Grace Nichols

Where can I find it?

Via dello Sprone, 14, 50125 Firenze FI