Author: simmonds

BULLI & BALENE – Spritz e Cicchetti

Posted on by simmonds

        Head towards “pussy alley”

An Italian Side Street with vespas
The so-called “Pussy Alley” on the corner where Bulli and Balene is located.

Every night on pussy alley there is a huge aperitivo in the streets. Beautiful Italians drinking wine while their voices carry far out onto the neighboring plaza. It is a social party full of locals, but not the type of party an American can attend. I had tried to be apart of the atmosphere, but I do not speak Italian so I could only observe the party from afar. My friends and I had a shared feeling of being left out, but we could not stop coming to Bulli and Balene. Pussy alley was captivating, we wanted a taste of the local Italian culture.

Best for:

Chalkboard Spritz Menu
The best local bar in Florence!

Those that are not drinking to get drunk, rather those who want to casually sip on some snazzy cocktails and munch on a couple of light snacks. Probably one of the main reasons Americans cannot fully be apart of the Italian experience outside of Bulli and Balene is because of the drunk American tourist stereotypes. So do yourself a favor and take care of yourself because we do not need you to get sloppy just to reinforce that. I recommend going either before or after dinner to sit and chat with friends when you want to trade in an evening filled with tourists for a flair of local culture. It is far from the crowds of the Duomo- a secret spot to see the magical art of the true Italian aperitivo.

Highlights: The Hugo Spritz and Their Cicchetti Sandwiches

Close up picture of glasses of wine, one cocktail, and one cocktail
Drinks on drinks on drinks! Two glasses of wine, one Hugo spritz, and one ginger beer.

If you are lucky enough to go into Bulli and Balene with an open mind you should try the star of the show- the hugo. This spritz is classified by me as their signature drink. Do not get me wrong, there are plenty of drinks to choose from- they have a large beer and wine list and they put funky twits on classics, but Bulli and Balene is known for their spritz’s. Trust me if you do not get one you are missing out big time! The Hugo is a mint and lime spritz that is super fresh and crisp. The drink has a hint of sweetness from the prosecco, but it is not overpowering because it is balanced out by the bitterness from the lime and coolness from the mint. The hugo is the best spritz I have ever had, and this is coming from a girl who does not like mojitos that much!

For the other half of the show you should try a cicchetti sandwich. Whenever you go to Bulli and Balene you will see customers walking with black trays full of little cicchetti sandwiches. The cristini like sandwiches which are one one of the main features of the bar are made fresh daily based on which ingredients are available in local markets. If you go there one day, and go back the next you may not see your favorite from yesterday because their cicchetti menu changes everyday! 

Get off your phone!

Wall of plants
The picturesque plant wall!

Once you get your drinks that come in vintage looking crystal glasses, or see the eloquently hand decorated hummus cristinis that look great against the plant wall you will be tempted to whip out your phone. Here is my challenge for you to not do that. I had to go back to Bulli and Balene multiple times and get photos that my friends took to post to this blog because I did not have any the first time I went. You would never see a local posting pictures to their instagrams of their aperitivos so if it is your goal to be less touristy skip the posting.

If I cannot use my phone, what should I expect?

Griping food, drinks, and conversations. The only time I find it acceptable to use your phone is when you need it for google translate because the menu is strictly written in all Italian (do not worry if you really need it there is free wifi). The place is also packed with mainly locals- you may find a couple of younger study abroad students, but expect the crowd to be young to middle aged Italians. Be prepared for those sometimes awkward interactions in regard to the language barrier.

You have made it to the end so now you can know the truth!

Bulli and Balene is on a side street called “pussy alley” because of a silver cat with piercing blue eyes that sits outside the restaurant. I knew the cat well before I knew the name of the street and I did not realize the name until I grabbed their business card on the second time I went to the bar!

Cat sleeping on top of a vespa
  Bulli and Balene’s mascot- a stray cat

By: Grace Nichols

Where can I find it?

Via dello Sprone, 14, 50125 Firenze FI 

Sant’Ambrogio Flea Market Stand

Posted on by simmonds

In a sea of bobbing white tents, people, and produce, this stand of oddities was like a moving island. The first time that I happened upon it was towards the south end of the market. But the next week it was nowhere to be seen. Last Tuesday I spotted it again on the opposite side as it was on the original time of discovery. It truly is a gem that takes some work to find but so unique that it’s worth it! stand, flea market, italy, florence, sant'ambrogio, knick knacks, junk, toys, vintage, old, nostalgic, hidden, gem

Sant’Ambrogio Flea Market Table

Where can I dig up this gem?

This stand can usually be found somewhere within a local run market called Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio. Here the people of the market are like bees going from flower to flower; fruit stand to vegetable booth, only picking up what they need, buzzing about in a language not understood to me.

It is well organized for a local, but for an outsider like me, it is chaotic. I weave my way in and out of the people, but I only prove myself to be a clumsy American as I bump around aimlessly trying to fit in. I try to match their self assuredness when I point to what I want from their overflowing crates of produce, the little Italian I attempt to communicate sounding something like a babbling baby.

It is hidden just out of sight from the tourist infested city center, in a very residential area. If you don’t have a map, you can head in the North-East direction from the Church of Santa Croce until you reach a square with a large building in the center, surrounded by tents and tables. If you DO have a map, the exact address of the market is Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 50122 Florence Italy.

However, this specific flea market stand is sometimes hard to find as the vendors seem to move about quite a bit. You can look for the cluttered table around the outskirts of the market, with doll heads and run by a tall, skinny Italian man.

Flea market vintage sustainable travel abroad study Florence italy
Sant’Ambrogio Jewelry Stand

Vibe check! What’s the atmosphere like?

With my last ounce of dignity, I push my way to an open doorway, promising sunlight. That is when I see four tables covered in kick-knacks, pushed together to form a protective barrier around the salesman who stands guard of the cash register in the center.

The contents of the tables turns out to be books, scarves, doll heads, toys, and kitchenware of a random assortment. The old books beg me to open them for the first time in centuries, probably. The dolls heads follow me as I try to decide how someone might find a use for them.

Sant’Ambrogio is actually very calm compared to the Central Market. But because it is mostly made up of Florentines, I would brush up on your basic Italian. The owner of this specific stand is honestly uninterested in the customers, but will be much more helpful if you know some words like “Quanto” to ask “How much?”. It is not a good place for you if you’re an American wanting to blend in, but you can definitely get some good practice!

What kind of Knick-knacks can I find here?

I pick apart a colorful cluster of silky scarves in a basket, made even more complex by the odd patterns that adorn each piece of material. They look like how my brain feels by being in this new country, all full of beauty but in need of being understood piece by piece. I pick a brown, baby blue, and gold one, and a black one with stitching of various famous monuments in Paris.

Coming to this flea market stand, you don’t even need to be looking to buy. It’s a little activity to throw in while checking out this side of town. If you’re like me, you will be so intrigued by the oddities spread across the table, that you will end up sifting through it for some time.

Personally, I love vintage things for discounted prices. It is more real than a vintage boutique where prices can still be through the roof! The whole flea market section of Sant’Ambrogio is the perfect place to find very unique little gifts for other lovers of the thrifted. The two scarves that I found here were actually quite in style (as determined by my local H&M), and I got them for only 2.50 euros a piece. Beat that fast fashion!

I gather the courage to speak to the owner, finally speaking out “how much?” in Italian. He doesn’t turn around and I debate how much I really want these scarves. But in reality, it is not about the scarves. I have to prove to myself, and this man (who will not remember me in 5 minutes) that I can thrive in country that will be my home for the semester.

Flea market vintage jackets Burberry high end designer
Vintage Burberry Jackets at Sant’Ambrogio Market

I haven’t even seen the Ponte Vecchio yet, is this place worth it?

Even if you never visit the specific stand that I am featuring in this post, I would highly recommend still exploring the Sant’Ambrogio Flea Market and general area. There are hundreds of little gems to uncover, all run and frequented by the kindest, most interesting people. Plus you get a little taste of authenticity, and get to act like a local for a bit!

I reset my body language to its asking stance and ask for the price in a clear voice that could have been the born and raised Florentine behind to me. He glances as me for less than a second and we debate on the total for a little longer than that. I am able to purchase both of them for five euros rather than six.

He takes my money and turns away, respectfully ending the interaction. I walk away with 5 euros less than the small amount that I brought here, but with a high determination for the next few months.

Where can I find the Sant’Ambrogio Market?